Day 4 - Johnston Campground to Radium Hot Springs (July 3)

July 3 - Time to get moving.

Today involved cycling through a lot of wonderful country. But it was exhausting. I cycled over two passes(each between 1 to 2 miles of climbing a 8% grade). This day was the hardest day since the beginning of my trip.

Before I got started, I took a little jaunt up to Johnston Falls. The time was 7:40 a.m. Remember that this is the trail that gets 1 million visitors each year. I walked and walked and nary a person. I started to worry about bears. I took out the weapon I had - my camera. I would use my camera flash. After an uneventful and peaceful walk, I arrived at lower Johnston Falls. Very nice. I loved having it all to myself. Then turning around, I head a twig snap…and it was…the first group of hikers to come out of the first tour bus (the first tour bus arrives at 8 a.m.).

No more peace and quiet.

The ride went through the Kootenay Valley which is the next valley to the west and parallel to Bow River Valley (the valley in which Banff is located). It involved riding over two mountain passes.

The first pass was very steep - another 8% grade and it seemed to go on forever. Longer than the climb up to Lake Louise. But the descent was glorious and I stopped at the bottom just along the Kootenay River. I sat and ate lunch and enjoyed the river.

For the next few miles of riding, I rode near the river. There were dense woods near the creamy blue river. The river was the color of glacier melt. You never see anyone or anything in this water because it is so cold. But there was one being that I kind of hoped or expected to see - Sasquatch. This country reminded me of the backdrop of all of those scary bigfoot shows I saw when I was younger. So I called out big foot’s name, but it never came out to play. Too bad.

I met Kelly, another bicycle younger tourist along the way. He had ridden from southern Oregon. I assume he had ridden up the Columbia River. Especially since the Columbia River started in the next valley over to the west.

After Kelly, I met one of the full time residents of the park, a bighorn sheep. He was hidden in this whitewashed scree field. Most of the others passing by in their vehicles likely weren't able to see the sheep because they were driving by at such fast speeds.

The surrounding peaks have interesting geology.

I later met Paul at the Dolly Varden Rest Area. He was retired and took up bike touring as a hobby. He had accomplished a number of tours around his home in Orange County, California and on his current trip he had ridden from Orange County.

The ride in Kootenay Valley was very nice. Mostly flat with wide shoulders.

Finally, I came to the last pass. The pass that would drop me off in Radium Hot Springs, so named because there are low levels of radium in the hot springs. Nothing that would hurt you though. Riding this pass made me crabby. It was very steep and long. The cars did not give me any space. They should have swung wide when they passed. Instead, a number came too close. This made me very crabby. When I finally reached the summit, I met a park ranger who also cycled and we discussed the many moods of cycling.

The descent from the last pass was fast, but a little harrowing because the shoulders were narrow. I actually pulled off of the road before the tunnel just before the town of Radium. The tunnel was narrow and I had a semi-truck bearing down on me. So I thought it was better to get off of the road than get run over.

The campground, The Canyon, was very nice, professional and had good internet access.

The many moods of touring.

Through out a day, a touring cyclist may experience a wide range of moods - tired, sad, anger, frustration, glee, joy, exhilaration. For example, let’s say that the climb is moderate, but there is a wind at my back. Then, if I can keep a steady pace, I’m satisfied and happy that I am making such good time climbing a hill. Of course, a head wind destroys the best of moods. I haven’t experience a really bad headwind yet this trip - the kind that almost brings you to a standstill - but, in the past, I have fought headwinds. This is a mistake because you can’t fight a headwind, you can only accept it and make the best.

If I’m on a narrow highway and the cars are zipping by without swinging widely around me, I might become crabby. It irks me when car drivers pass me so closely.

If a car passes giving me a wide berth or if a driver waves, this can quickly change a tired crabby mood to a good mood. A good mood makes for faster and easier cycling. When a bad mood occurs every pedal stroke is hard and some feel like my last pedal stroke. Obviously I prefer a good mood over a bad mood, but in a typical day, I start with a good mood and somewhere in the afternoon (when it is hot or the traffic is irritating), my mood changes.

Day 4 - Johnston Campground to Radium Hot Springs (74 Miles)