A Pigeon and a Point: The San Mateo Coast

Althought I had hurt my knee on the previous day's riding and had stopped riding, I decided to continue (by car) to the hostel at which I had a reservation. This was a great decision. It was the Monday after the Thanksgiving Holiday and there were very few people staying at the hostel. The hostel is located next to the Pigeon Point Lighthouse on the San Mateo County coast. There are a few eating options around the area, including the very expensive and fancy, Costanoa three miles south and across the highway.

The hostel consists of three buildings. Each building has three rooms (one 6-bed men's bunkroom, one 6-bed women's bunkroom, a private couples room), a living room, and a kitchen. The only other person staying in my building was a women from the Netherlands. So I got the men's bunkroom to myself.

The Hostel also has a hot tub overlooking the Pacific Ocean. It is literally on a cliff overlooking the Pacific ($7 per 30 minutes).

I went in the hot tub. There was a full moon, a few stray clouds, and the lighthouse light would periodically swing around sending a beam over the ocean. This was one of the best-located hot tubs I have been in.

The next day, I visited the Ano Nuevo State Reserve and saw some sealions playing, sleeping, and fighting.

Day 62 - Stillwater Cove to Samuel P. Taylor (November 24)

It was another cold morning, though not as cold as Santa Rosa. Temperatures were a good ten degrees Fahrenheit warmer along the coast.

Clouds Over the Pacific

The ride was very curvy. Every descent was followed by a long climb. At least it was a great day to be out and about. I stopped in Jenner for a snack and to watch the surfers.

Surf at the mouth of the Russian River

I also saw the surfers at Salmon Creek just north of Bodega Bay.

The Beach at Salmon Creek

The road did not have a wide big shoulder. I actually felt unsafe riding along the coastal rode - less safe than riding in Vietnam. It may have had something to do with the speeds. People were zooming by me at 100 kilometers per hour (60 mph) or faster. Can't they just slow and give me some space when they pass?

I stopped for lunch in Marshall and then continued onto Point Reyes Station where it was an active early evening - many tourists were ending their day with a stop at the bakery and coffee shop. People stopped me and asked me about my bike trip. It was nice to talk to so many people that were genuinely interested in bike touring. It was nice to be a momentary celebrity, but I had to keep going because I had five more miles to ride and once again it was getting dark.

Bridge Across the Russian River Upstream of Jenner

It was dark as I rode up to the campground at Samuel P. Taylor State Park. Some bike messengers offered me some 'smores as they would be riding back to San Francisco (in the dark, on Sir Francis Drake Blvd.).

Camping here in the woods, it was much cooler at the coast, but the bike messengers had left me another gift - a warm fire.

Day 62 - Stillwater to Samuel P. - 61 Miles

Day 63 - Samuel P. Taylor to Oakland (November 25)

Blue Heron on Richardson Bay

Today's ride was pleasant and uneventful. I have learned that it is possible to go on a short weekender in the Bay Area. Just ride to Samuel P. Taylor State Park, pitch a tent, pay the nominal hiker/biker fee ($3), take a hot shower ($1.50 for 10 minutes), make some 'smores, and drink a beer. Then wake up the next morning and ride home. Very civilized, yet roughing it at the same time.

Today there were very high tides. Part of my route took me over a bike path that runs through an arm of Richardson Bay. The tide was so high that it flooded on the bike path. Many of the recreational cyclists that were using the bike path didn't want to get their expensive ($2,000+) bikes wet. I can understand that, but it wasn't really a concern for me because my bike had pretty much been ridden in rain each day in Vietnam. Just lube the chain after the ride and I am ready for the next ride.

North End Golden Gate.

I crossed over the Golden Gate Bridge. Coming around a tower, I wasn't paying attention because I was looking at my bike and I almost ran someone over. Fortunately she was friendly and she just treated the incident like I was crazy. She had a point.

Because it was lunch time, I decided to stop in Fort Mason and get take out from the Greens Restaurant. I wish I could end each day's riding with this type of food. From here, I rolled along the Embarcadero to the BART station and caught a train to Oakland.

Day 61 - Santa Rosa to Timber Cove (November 23)

What exactly was I thinking? The easier and more sane ride would have been the River Road through Guerneville to Jenner or I could have just ridden through Sebastapol and into Bodega Bay. Not ever wanting to do anything easy, I choose the Stewarts Point Skaggs Creek Road. Bad decision. Unless I wanted to push my bike, which, of course, I did. The road climbs and descends and climbs...

Vineyards in the Fall Sun

The day started out cold as I left Santa Rosa. After breakfast in Healdsburg, I flatted twice before getting to Lake Sonoma. It was at about this point that I was passed by another cyclist who just shaked his head at the fact that I would try to ride this road. Oh, well.

Lake Sonoma

At least I had good company. The motorcycles love this road and descend and ascend its curves at dizzying speeds. At one point in my ride (or push), a group of them said "sorry buddy as they knew what was ahead for me...more hike-a-bike.

I hadn't planned well enough. I started later than I wanted and somewhere along the way I ran out of water. Although it was not hot, I didn't drink enough water and I was becoming dehydrated from pushing my bike up so many steep hills. Since I didn't have any water and there were no places to buy water along the way, I decided to flag some passing cars.

Curves Ahead

The first pickup truck that stopped only had iced tea. That wouldn't do. The passenger of the truck urged me to go back. He told me that I was at the midway point and the the rest of the road was just as curvy as the last 10 miles. I didn't believe him. I could see that I was steadily climbing up to the high point on the road where I would then be at the headwaters of a creek. From there, I would follow a river for 10 miles. So I knew that I would soon be done with all the climbing and would be able to have an easier ride. I was suspicious of the pickup truck passenger.

Since I still didn't have any water, I flagged down a minivan. The driver said he didn't have any water, then he thought for a moment, and asked me if I wanted cold water. I told him that I didn't need cold water because it wasn't hot outside. He went to the back of his car and pulled out two 1.5 liter bottles of Polish spring water.

After drinking nearly the entire contents of one bottle, I continued pushing my bike up the hill eventually reaching the top of the hill. It was downhill for the next 5 miles and then the road was flat or generally downhill as I followed the creek.

I had folded my map into three sections. I was now travelling on the second section. I did not know what was on the third section. As I reached the end of the section section, I unfolded the map and noticed that the rest of the road would not follow the creek. I assumed that meant that I would need to push my bike and I was correct. I pushed my bike for three miles to the top of one hill and then I pushed my bike a bit as I came out of another river drainage. However that last push was easier and I was able to ride the rest of the way (most of it downhill) to the coast.

Highway 1

Reaching the coast at Stewarts Point, I saw that it was 5 p.m. The sun was setting, yet I still had 10 or so more miles to ride. That meant that I would ride in the dark. So I turned on the flashing light and put on my highway construction worker vest. I assumed that the cars wouldn't be able to see me at all. So after a few minutes, I decided to be as safe as I could. Whenever I saw or heard a car coming behind me, I would just pull off of the road and wait for it to pass. Because the road was curvy, I couldn't see very far behind me to determine when the next car would arrive. Altogether, I pulled off of the road at least 20 times.

I arrived at Salt Point State Park in the dark and called my aunt's sister. Her husband came and picked me up. They fed me Thanksgiving leftovers and we watched a movie - "We Are Marshall." Because they had house guests, I was driven a short way down the road to the Stillwater Cove Regional Park. Unlike the State Park, this park has showers. Both the parks have hiker/biker sites ($3/night). I had a peaceful sleep under a full moon.

Day 61 - Santa Rosa to Timber Cove - 77 Miles