A Pigeon and a Point: The San Mateo Coast

Althought I had hurt my knee on the previous day's riding and had stopped riding, I decided to continue (by car) to the hostel at which I had a reservation. This was a great decision. It was the Monday after the Thanksgiving Holiday and there were very few people staying at the hostel. The hostel is located next to the Pigeon Point Lighthouse on the San Mateo County coast. There are a few eating options around the area, including the very expensive and fancy, Costanoa three miles south and across the highway.

The hostel consists of three buildings. Each building has three rooms (one 6-bed men's bunkroom, one 6-bed women's bunkroom, a private couples room), a living room, and a kitchen. The only other person staying in my building was a women from the Netherlands. So I got the men's bunkroom to myself.

The Hostel also has a hot tub overlooking the Pacific Ocean. It is literally on a cliff overlooking the Pacific ($7 per 30 minutes).

I went in the hot tub. There was a full moon, a few stray clouds, and the lighthouse light would periodically swing around sending a beam over the ocean. This was one of the best-located hot tubs I have been in.

The next day, I visited the Ano Nuevo State Reserve and saw some sealions playing, sleeping, and fighting.

Day 62 - Stillwater Cove to Samuel P. Taylor (November 24)

It was another cold morning, though not as cold as Santa Rosa. Temperatures were a good ten degrees Fahrenheit warmer along the coast.

Clouds Over the Pacific

The ride was very curvy. Every descent was followed by a long climb. At least it was a great day to be out and about. I stopped in Jenner for a snack and to watch the surfers.

Surf at the mouth of the Russian River

I also saw the surfers at Salmon Creek just north of Bodega Bay.

The Beach at Salmon Creek

The road did not have a wide big shoulder. I actually felt unsafe riding along the coastal rode - less safe than riding in Vietnam. It may have had something to do with the speeds. People were zooming by me at 100 kilometers per hour (60 mph) or faster. Can't they just slow and give me some space when they pass?

I stopped for lunch in Marshall and then continued onto Point Reyes Station where it was an active early evening - many tourists were ending their day with a stop at the bakery and coffee shop. People stopped me and asked me about my bike trip. It was nice to talk to so many people that were genuinely interested in bike touring. It was nice to be a momentary celebrity, but I had to keep going because I had five more miles to ride and once again it was getting dark.

Bridge Across the Russian River Upstream of Jenner

It was dark as I rode up to the campground at Samuel P. Taylor State Park. Some bike messengers offered me some 'smores as they would be riding back to San Francisco (in the dark, on Sir Francis Drake Blvd.).

Camping here in the woods, it was much cooler at the coast, but the bike messengers had left me another gift - a warm fire.

Day 62 - Stillwater to Samuel P. - 61 Miles

Day 61 - Santa Rosa to Timber Cove (November 23)

What exactly was I thinking? The easier and more sane ride would have been the River Road through Guerneville to Jenner or I could have just ridden through Sebastapol and into Bodega Bay. Not ever wanting to do anything easy, I choose the Stewarts Point Skaggs Creek Road. Bad decision. Unless I wanted to push my bike, which, of course, I did. The road climbs and descends and climbs...

Vineyards in the Fall Sun

The day started out cold as I left Santa Rosa. After breakfast in Healdsburg, I flatted twice before getting to Lake Sonoma. It was at about this point that I was passed by another cyclist who just shaked his head at the fact that I would try to ride this road. Oh, well.

Lake Sonoma

At least I had good company. The motorcycles love this road and descend and ascend its curves at dizzying speeds. At one point in my ride (or push), a group of them said "sorry buddy as they knew what was ahead for me...more hike-a-bike.

I hadn't planned well enough. I started later than I wanted and somewhere along the way I ran out of water. Although it was not hot, I didn't drink enough water and I was becoming dehydrated from pushing my bike up so many steep hills. Since I didn't have any water and there were no places to buy water along the way, I decided to flag some passing cars.

Curves Ahead

The first pickup truck that stopped only had iced tea. That wouldn't do. The passenger of the truck urged me to go back. He told me that I was at the midway point and the the rest of the road was just as curvy as the last 10 miles. I didn't believe him. I could see that I was steadily climbing up to the high point on the road where I would then be at the headwaters of a creek. From there, I would follow a river for 10 miles. So I knew that I would soon be done with all the climbing and would be able to have an easier ride. I was suspicious of the pickup truck passenger.

Since I still didn't have any water, I flagged down a minivan. The driver said he didn't have any water, then he thought for a moment, and asked me if I wanted cold water. I told him that I didn't need cold water because it wasn't hot outside. He went to the back of his car and pulled out two 1.5 liter bottles of Polish spring water.

After drinking nearly the entire contents of one bottle, I continued pushing my bike up the hill eventually reaching the top of the hill. It was downhill for the next 5 miles and then the road was flat or generally downhill as I followed the creek.

I had folded my map into three sections. I was now travelling on the second section. I did not know what was on the third section. As I reached the end of the section section, I unfolded the map and noticed that the rest of the road would not follow the creek. I assumed that meant that I would need to push my bike and I was correct. I pushed my bike for three miles to the top of one hill and then I pushed my bike a bit as I came out of another river drainage. However that last push was easier and I was able to ride the rest of the way (most of it downhill) to the coast.

Highway 1

Reaching the coast at Stewarts Point, I saw that it was 5 p.m. The sun was setting, yet I still had 10 or so more miles to ride. That meant that I would ride in the dark. So I turned on the flashing light and put on my highway construction worker vest. I assumed that the cars wouldn't be able to see me at all. So after a few minutes, I decided to be as safe as I could. Whenever I saw or heard a car coming behind me, I would just pull off of the road and wait for it to pass. Because the road was curvy, I couldn't see very far behind me to determine when the next car would arrive. Altogether, I pulled off of the road at least 20 times.

I arrived at Salt Point State Park in the dark and called my aunt's sister. Her husband came and picked me up. They fed me Thanksgiving leftovers and we watched a movie - "We Are Marshall." Because they had house guests, I was driven a short way down the road to the Stillwater Cove Regional Park. Unlike the State Park, this park has showers. Both the parks have hiker/biker sites ($3/night). I had a peaceful sleep under a full moon.

Day 61 - Santa Rosa to Timber Cove - 77 Miles

Day 43 - Rockport to Bucksport, ME (September 14)

Climbing hills, sitting by the ocean...

Today, I ran into two actual touring cyclists. One who wasn't touring and then another who was touring, but only lightly. The first grabbed me in the RiteAid in Camden, Maine. He had ridden the Northern Tier Route in 2005 and had really enjoyed the experience. The other cyclist I saw coming out of Camden Hills State Park. He was from Toronto, I think, and he was just touring around for a couple days. It is interesting to see the gear that other cyclists from other countries use. His gear looked like space gear. The handlebar bag, and front panniers had hard sides, but flexible fronts to allow for expansion when just one more extra cliff bar was shoved into them. And speaking about panniers, I found out that I carry way to much stuff. My front food pannier may weigh as much as 17 pounds!

I ran into another would be touring cyclist in Camden Hills State Park. This gentleman, from Maryland, was really excited about doing a tour. I hope he gets out there soon. My experience is that it is worthwhile, and especially enjoyable riding in Maine.

In Camden Hills, I rode to the top of the Mt. Battie Auto Road to see the views. There is a small tower at the top of Mt. Battie.

After that, it was a climb to the Ocean Overlook near Mt. Megunticook. A 1,300-foot mountain right next to Penobscot Bay. The road to the top of Mt. Battie was at least 12% at times.

This is a photo of Mt. Battie (look for the tower). To the right is the steep road to Mt. Battie.

Camden Harbor. Look for Clipper Ships.

A nice place for lunch...

I turned off of the main route, Highway 1, and followed roads right on the coast. For a while, the houses looked like they were straight out of Mayberry. The houses were too cute. Almost like Disneyland for Adults.

A row of houses overlooking a park and the ocean.

Leaving Disney for Adults, I continued on to the Penobscot Marine Museum in Searsport. Unfortunately, I was there at just 45 minutes before closing, so I was only able to look at the color and black and white photos of the boats and the ocean. They also have an archive of old glass plate photos. It's available online. Stunning!

A new bridge over the Penobscot River leading towards Bucksport.

Near Bucksport is the new bridge, Historic Fort Knox, and a huge paper mill. I won't show you the paper mill.

Day 43 - Rockport to Bucksport - 50 Miles

Day 42 - Nobleboro to Rockport, ME (September 13)

Getting on the road again...

Reunion

Today was a reunion of shorts. My camera and I were finally reuninted. For those of you who have been following the story, my camera died in a gunfight in Cody Wyoming on the last day of July.

It was 6:30 in the evening. I stepped into the street in the middle of the street near the hotel named after one of Buffalo Bill's children. The air was buzzing with excitement. After the actors got the advertisements out of the way for the local businesses, they went about the business of recreating an actual western gunfight. Actually they were shooting blanks. Somewhere into the end of the shoot out at the bar and just before the fight scene in the bar, I guess I took a stray shot because my camera stopped working.

When I arrived in Boulder, I took it to the nearest Best Buy. A repair and a couple of shipping snafus later, it was delivered (actually I picked it up) into my grubby hands. So nice to be reunited.

Today's Ride.

Today was the best of Maine. The cars and trucks actually didn't drive me crazy. Yes, there is no shoulder and yes what remains of the road is generally uneven, but Maine drivers are generally good and give me a wide berth. Yeah!

Today's goal was to ride to the Olson House, a popular subject for painter Andrew Wyeth.

The Olson House

Other than that, the ride was nice, the wind was at my back, the land was not too hilly, the weather was beautiful and the pictures are on the disposable camera. So, those will be uploaded in the future.

View from the Campground. Maine Rocks!

Even the buildings are nice to look at.

And this is just the campground office.

Day 42 - Nobleboro to Rockport - 47 Miles